Leaders: Miles Doughty, Emma Metcalfe, Richard Hamlyn, Emma Scott Langley
Members: Richard Storr, Hannah Parker, Hannah Charnley, Merle Henderson, Daniel Dodson, Jonathon Hill, Joe Swindells, Lindsay Cooper, Laurence Wynne, Kate Rosemary Stothert, Tabitha Howells, Stephen Richardson, Jennifer Smith, Ailsa Kaye
Dates: 22 July – 12 August
It was the end of July and the beginning of what should have been the hottest weeks of the year in England but it was raining torrentially. Fortunately for the group of 18 expeditioners who met at Manchester airport the destination was Morocco where it certainly was the hottest weeks of the year, although not without it's own torrential rain.
Arriving in Marrakesh courtesy of Thomsonfly's cheap flights walking off the airplane was like being engulfed by a big hot blanket. We were met by our fantastic hosts and guides Hassan and Houssain who have looked after so many groups of Brathay expeditioners. It was only a brief stop in Marrakesh but enough time to take in the hustle and bustle of the Djeema el-Fna, the square where almost the entire population of Marrakesh seem to congregate telling stories, playing cards, charming snakes and more. From here it was good to head up into the peace of the Atlas mountains to the Ait Chajaa's house in the village of Aremd, Armed, Around or however else the Moroccans chose to spell it.
Taking the bus as far as Imlil before climbing up to the village the scene that I had seen in so many photos from other expeditions came into view. The village perched on the end of a spur with stunning mountains all around. Not quite situated in the village but up the valley towards our goal, Jebel Toubkal, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the house had been especially extended for our and other groups use. The top floor now consisted of five rooms for sleeping, and relaxing as well as a large terrace. We were greeted by the infamous Berber whiskey, mint tea with so much sugar your teeth cringe followed by our first lunch. It is always with trepidation that you eat salad in Africa but digestive systems proved surprisingly resilient.
The first few days were spent exploring the area and acclimatising to the 2000 m altitude with a day walk up to the Cascades de Chamarouch as preparation for the trek. It was not long before we were packing ready to depart for 14 days with the difficulty decision what possessions to leave since we had to share bags and not break the backs of our mules. It's amazing what you don't need, especially the dozen extra thick copies of Harry Potter that came out just before we went away. The first day gave us an insight into what we could expect for the rest of the trek, early mornings, climbs up high passes (Tizis), long hot dusty descents, fascinating settlements, lazy afternoons at camp and lots and lots of carrot. Some early illness meant that an extra day was spent at Tachedirt before some people returned to the hospitality of Hassan's family. Fortunately those people would rejoin the group for the climax of the expedition, climbing Jebel Toubkal. Before attempting Jebel Toubkal from Refuge Neltner the trek took in Azib Likemt, Amsouzerte and Lake d'Ifni for a welcome dip. We also had the opportunity to experience Berber festivities helping us to celebrate Dan's 16th birthday.
Once at Refuge Neltner it was a very early, moon lit start to get to the summit for sunrise. The long climb gradually revealed the summit with it's metal pyramid structure and it was just before 6 am that the final members of the group reached the summit as the sun appeared through the cloud. This was a fantastic achievement for all the members of the group, some who were nursing injuries or were ill, so there was much celebration, chocolate and photos.
The second part of trek took the group into some dramatically different terrain heading through juniper covered hillsides to Tizi Oussem with another opportunity to celebrate with Joe's 17th birthday. From Tizi Oussem the group headed off the beaten track down into the dry and dusty Agoundis valley to the final destination of Ijoukak and Tin Mal mosque. This was a unique opportunity to visit an ancient and once important Muslim monument.
Saying farewell to our trusty mules and catching a very packed bus back to Aremd it was with great relief that everyone got showered and clean for some well deserved rest and relaxation. One of the highlights of these few days was a visit to the village Hammam (sauna) for a thorough deep clean and a vigorous massage by the local bruisers. Then it was time to put on our party costumes to celebrate the completion of our trek and the departure of one of our leaders, Richard. The results from the smallest possible expenditure were fantastic with a variety of vegetables, animals and famous characters although I'm not sure what the local musicians made of the Village People.
Having heard reports of 45 °C in Marrakesh it was almost with relief that the heavens opened turning the valley into a muddy torrent but cooling the air temperature significantly. So, having mastered the art of bartering with the shop keepers of Imlil we headed back to Marrakesh for the final few days to brave the Souks. We also took the opportunity to visit the Saadian Tombs and Palais el-Badi and enjoy our final authentic tajines before flying back to Luton airport.
The completed expedition was a fantastic success and an achievement for all involved. For many it was their first expedition, certainly the first opportunity to visit Africa and experience an extremely different culture. It could not have taken place without the enthusiasm of the members, the support of the leaders and the back up of the office and group and I hope many more people are able to enjoy this superb expedition.